Sunday, September 25, 2011

Coat - DKNY Vogue V1130





Hi
Pattern Description: Loose fitting, unlined jacket has dropped shoulders, neck and front bands, welt pockets, pleated lower section, raised waistline with waistband wide sticked hems, above knee length and snap closing

Pattern Sizing: 12
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? yes

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked that it was loose fitting and not a fitted tailored coat. I liked the pockets and the round neck. Without my alterations the coat would have been a quick to make when compaired to the time it takes to make a tailored coat.

Fabric Used: Soft wool felt
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: sewed the pleats down so that they did not add bulk to my waist. I finished the hems with ribbon to reduce the bulk of turning the facing under or and to improve the look internally by not too many overlocked edges. The ribbon and pleats were all hand sewn so they have added a considerable amount of time to this project.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No I think it is a very distinct pattern that you could only sew once. I recommend it to others who are looking for a coat that has the ability to be worn over many items of clothing and is more relaxed that a tailored coat.
Conclusion: I am happy with the out come. Looking at the photos I am going to check the sleaves as they seem a bit long and make sure I have not missed something.

Cheers

Lara

I have also finished a spring Tunic and pants I hope to have will have photos tomorrow.

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Summer skirt and blouse - Simplicity 2599



Hi


Wow, I have not posted for over a month. The coat has been a labour of love with a considerable amount of hand sewing. I am nearly finished but have run out of ribbon and there is none to be found at my local sewing shops. So as it may be another two weeks I thought I would post on something I made last summer.

The blouse pattern was extremely popular last year amongst sewers. I did not need to change anything with the pattern. The ruffled version was time consuming but worth it. I edged the ruffles using washable embroidery backing called rinse away. It gave the soft silk enough body to edge with a feather stitch. The skirt is silk tweed.

Cheers

Lara

Saturday, July 30, 2011

Work in Progress

Hi

Just to let you know I am busy sewing a new coat for myself.  Last year I realised there are different types of clothes that I avoid sewing because they are too time consuming. My new years sewing resolution was to branch out.  There was no excuse as I have been sewing for seven years I really don't need to rush to fill wardrobe gaps, most of the time I am replacing things and a have enough to last a while.  Hence the three shirts (slow but needed).  The coat I am sewing is light weight by most standards as it is not lined.  This is all I need, Perth does not get any colder than 5 degrees min and 13 max, with many winter days much warmer.  I am about half way so check back in two weeks, hopefully.



Cheers Lara

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Final shirt - Simplicity 2339

Hi



Hi



Sorry it has been so long.  Please excuse the creases, this photo was taken after I have finished work.  I have finally finished my last long sleeved shirt for winter.  This fabric has been in my stash for four years.  I have been waiting till I had the skill to be able to cut it and make a business shirt that would do the fabric's quality and pattern justice.  It is a Italian cotton with a subtle sheen on the stripes. 

The cuffs of this pattern have been a problem in the last two shirts.  This time I have used a cuff style taken from a quality RTW shirt.  The end of the sleeve was extended by six inches and turned twice to form a cuff.  The back of the sleeve is folded on it self three inches from the in side seam.  A button hole is placed half an inch from the fold and the button is on the inside seam.  When done up it pulls the cuff in a the wrist.

Cheers Lara

Sunday, June 19, 2011

Ruffle Shirt _ Simplicity 2339


Hi


I have made version C of the simplicity shirt I made in April. This shirt was principally made to match the skirt fabric and was completed two weeks ago. Last weekend I made the skirt in the photo. The fabric was given to me by a friend. Sadly I will not complete the skirt as I really dislike the way it drapes.



I cut on the bias because I thought the check was too dominate if cut on the straight grain. I am not sure it this is why the drape is so horrible or if it is the bias cut or the fabrics fault. On the upside it was a technical challenge to match the pattern and insert a zip in a bias cut.



The shirt was slow to make and I think will be useful for work. I had limited fabric so cut the ruffle on the straight grain, which was fine. For fun I also experimented with the yoke based on a RTW shirt. To finnish the bottom of the collar I added a bias cut double strip of fabric and then stitched in the ditch from the right side to secure.



I attached the cuff to the sleave as per instructions and was not happy because it was one inch too long for me. I modified the pattern by seaming the sleave vent and half the cuff. I then turned the cuff in half. To enhance the plain weave shirt I top stitched the collar and shirt front. I have finished French seams and double folded hem



Cheers Lara

Saturday, June 4, 2011

Simplicity 2550






Hi
I made this dress for our recent trip to Melbourne, although it was mostly for work we had a dinner planned with friends for Saturdays night. Melbourne is the “fashion capital” of Australia and I was looking forward to getting dressed for dinner. Sadly our friends said they were keen on relaxing and wearing their jeans! I think my dress is too much for work and will suit a limited number of places. No regrets I am happy with my pattern choice and it was a challenge to find the right style for the fabric.

The pattern is not complex but with any lined dress it does take some time I think it took two weekends. I made version C as shown in the line drawing obviously without buttons and I turned up the sleave to form a cuff. Although the pattern does not have lining I cut the dress pattern in lining fabric. On my manikin the fit is great across the chest. However on me I think the upper bodice may be a little long or wide for me with slight folds at times. This did not happen with the muslin but it was not the same weight of fabric. Over time I will think about this problem so next time I can prevent it happening. Any suggestions are welcome?

The fabric is a wool woven roll end that has lace over a check pattern in black and grey from Emma one sock. I liked the fabric for some time but was not sure what garment would suit the large lace pattern so I held of buying when it come on the roll ends I could not resist. One of my favourite parts of sewing is the planning stage, when I sift through my patterns and look at the internet patterns and imagine how the fabric would look in that style. When I brought this I thought I would make a skirt. Then I saw this dress from YSL and decided on a dress. I found the whole collection inspiring. As I could not find a pattern to match, I settled for the Simplicity 2550.








Cheers Lara

Sunday, May 29, 2011

Vogue 7881

Hi

This second picture is how I will wear the trousers.  The top is from the Japanese book drape drape. The dogs are Andrew and Monty (red jacket).  Every time I have photos taken they are keen to be included this time I thought why not.





These trousers are a land mark moment for my sewing. I have never been satisfied with any trousers I have made before these. Most of my difficulties were either the crutch was too low or odd looking with folds in the wrong place, or the waist and fly area was too big or tight and distorted. I still wore these inadequate trousers because most of the time I wear my tops out, but it is great to have the option of showing the waist. I brought this pattern when I started sewing seven and a half years ago and made the non couture trouser. It was too long in the front from crutch to waist. So I moved on to other patterns. I now have tried at least 8 different trouser patterns. I was reading the Sewing Lawyers blog recently which discussed how fantastic the couture version of the trousers were and how they always suit her. There is alot of detail in this post so check it out.  http://kaythesewinglawyer.blogspot.com/2011/05/unseasonal.html

I thought I may as well try again.  This time I cut a size twelve in Marc Jacob’s wool and Lycra. I did not have time for a Muslin.  As Perth has been very warm for Autum with temperatures of over 30 degrees and I had not taken out my winter clothes. I was packing for the trip away and fortunately tried on my wool black trousers only to find they had shrunk. With one week to go I needed to take the risk and cut the fabric.

As per instructions I steam shrunk the front and back areas that would normally have pleats, this is great because it reduces bulk over my stomach. I followed all couture instructions including hand picking the zip. I found the zip surprisingly easy and very accurate. I would consider doing this more often because you don’t have the problem of the zip moving with the zipper foot. The only thing I would change next time is the waist band lining. I would seam it at the top with the front band, prior to the top stitching and then leave it open for the topstitching. Thus I could trim the seam allowances prior to turning the lining down and hand stitching the bottom section in place. When I try this I will re post.


Cheers


Lara

Saturday, May 21, 2011

Tunic Vogue 8668

Hi







This tunic is for casual wear with jeans or black pants. Pattern Description is misses top and tunic : Semi-fitted, have fount gathers and back darts and concealed elastic casing. I originally brought another fabric (the Silk Jersey recommend by the pattern) however it was not wide enough for the Kimono sleaves. This fabric I used is a light wool knit that has a close ribbing. I omitted the loops and buttons because I did not think the fabric had sufficient body to cope with the weight. Also I wanted a more minimal look to go with the monotone colour.

I changed the front construction further by omitting the bias tape for the neck line. Instead I seamed the front together then based the seam allowance down. I turned the neck edge under about ½ inch and based it in place. Starting at the bottom of the front upper section I cover stitched up the front seam on one side, went up the v neck and around the back, then down the v neck and on the opposite side of the seam. Thus when I had finished the front seam has six lines of stitching, with three on each side of the seam. Thus all seam allowances are finished(photos will be added soon). 

This tunic is view B (middle tunic) with the medium length skirt. I am only 5 foot 4 or 164cm and I think the long tunic would not have worked for me. I have a deep hem on the sleave which I like, this was not intentional and may be a place to save fabric in future if required. It was a reasonably quick project taking around two hours.  Yes I do like bows.

Cheers

Lara

Monday, May 16, 2011

Tunic - Vogue 8596

Hi




I have made this pattern several times now, as it is always so nice to sew and wear (it is out of print). I vary the neck line with each new version to keep it interesting. This is version c with the three quarter length sleeves and contrasting bow. I made this for winter evenings to wear with pants. I have been able to wear it to a number of outings manly dinner with friends. I have made it in silk and I have used a small gathered black frill to define the sleave frill and tie in with the bow. The pattern bow is in the centre. To mix things up I moved it to the side. The pattern is very easy and quick to sew. The gathered neck line is great because it allows for each person to wear it wide or close depending on their preference. I need to add some width to the sleaves as it can be tight with French seams.


Sorry about the creases this is after four hours on a plane; it was my last clean shirt. As my DH was home I took the opportunity to get a deceit photo. We have been away for work and I have been sewing like mad to finish some new things so I will have lots of photos coming soon. The black trousers are new and will post them next.


Perhaps at some stage I will show my summer version of the top in cotton voil it is away at present. My first version with cotton was as shown on the pattern with a centre bow. It was a great top but sadly the fabric only lasted one season. I will repeat this top soon but because it was such a striking top I thought I would have two years off before repeating it.


Cheers

Lara

Wednesday, May 11, 2011

Knit top - Burda 7444

Hi

In February I made the Burda top after seeing Sharon’s post. It gives all the details you need to make the pattern.

http://sharonsews.blogspot.com/2011/01/cowl-neck-turtleneck-drama-burda-7444.html

I was totally taken with this unique top. I loved the draping and the high neck. The fabric is dove grey bamboo knit from http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/xcart/home.php.

 
I experimented with gathering using the clear elastic to see if it was possible to save time. It was not as effective as the recommended gathering with a long stitch and then applying the elastic. The top requires a moderate amount of time to make because of the gathering, it also requires a significant amount of fabric. The fit of the top is good it is longer than most knit tops and looks great with a long cardigan.



Cheers Lara

Saturday, May 7, 2011

Vogue 1199 - Rebecca Taylor

Hi


I don’t think in the entire time I have been sewing for myself I have ever not finished a garment I have started. (It is a self imposed rule to avoid wasting money and time). Occasionally I am so disappointed in the garment that I only wear it around the house for a few years.  I always finish it. That is until now. Two weeks ago I spent an afternoon sewing and the following photo is the result. Yes it has taken me this long to get over the frustration. Luckily I only cut the front and I hope I have enough fabric to try another pattern.




I brought the pattern to try out my pin tucking foot. Pin tucking has been a sewing ambition for a long time alas it is still only a dream. With the blouse, I measured and traced lines to ensure the pin tucks were equal length. I started the pin tucks on each side so they would meet in the middle. When I got close to the middle I realised that there was an inch difference in length. I tried to fix this with obviously poor results. I don’t think the silk chiffon (not recommended by the pattern) suited the pattern and I hope that is the fabric that caused the distortion. Before wasting more time and fabric I think I had best check the Vogue Pattern on Pattern review.



Cheers Lara


Thursday, May 5, 2011

Details of Simplicity 2339

Hi

As promised the photos of the details of my new shirt

1/ Front inside


2/ Back yoke


3/ Back turned hem


4/ Front of shirt and sleave

Sunday, May 1, 2011

Shirt - Simplicity 2339




Hi

I waited three weeks for this pattern to arrive at Spotlight. I am so glad I persisted because it is the best shirt pattern I have found. I am excited because it will be great for work shirts. The pattern is a petite shirt with individual pieces for each bust size. The shirt has a front side and waist dart and a back waist dart. The fabric is silk charmeuse.


The pattern is straight forward, I especially like the back yoke this is the first time I have made a shirt with one. The way that it is in closed gives a beautiful finish to the inside. I choose a B cup front and graded from a ten to twelve top to bottom. The sleave insertion was a dream. I omitted the collar and replaced it with the tie from a Vogue pattern. I really wanted a bow or tie in the silk. Because of the tie I closed the shirt with small press studs. I have finished French seams and double folded hem.

It has taken me one week to make this mainly because of the hand sewing at the cuff, front bands and the tie areas. I expect in the future it will quicker with cottons and using the overlocker. I will post more photos tomorrow of the inside


Cheers Lara.

Saturday, April 30, 2011

Summer Dress - Butterick B4978




Hi

This dress was made for Easter. I am so glad I started at the end of March because it was time consuming. This was mainly because I adapted the pattern and secondly because of the hand sewing required. The dress is a semi fitted, flared and lined with a back zipper. The fabric is silk chiffon and silk satin.



I had previously made the dress in a cotton / linen fabric last year. It is wearable but I was not happy with the drape, it feels stiff. I also did not like the midriff band. SO I thought how hard can it be to extend the bodice from a princess line to the waist. I made a muslin and was reasonably happy with the fit on Margret. I made the lining which required considerable tweaking. The outer fabric was not as bad because it is less fitted.

I also made other changes, the pattern asks for the skirt to be cut on the bias which I did not have the fabric to complete, I also omitted the front slit because it is time consuming and I worry about fraying. I hand sewed all the trim on the wrong side because I think it leaves a better finish. All the seams are French to avoid fraying. The invisible zip went in better than expected possibly because I inserted the chiffon and satin together. I could not face putting the zip in with just the chiffon. I am not sure if this is correct but I think it will increase the life of my dress so please forgive me if it is a crime.

I am happy with the outcome the dress is delightful to wear, however it is far from perfect and I hope I learn my lesson that I should have given the pattern up and found a new one that did not have a midriff band.

As I am sure you have noticed the last three garments are chiffon and dresses. This is because my local fabric store recently had a 50% sale and the silks were irresistible. Also until this year I have not had the confidence to try chiffon and I am excited to find both patterns for it and my ability are equal to the challenge.

Cheers Lara.

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Summer Dress - Butterick B5177

Hi all

I returned to work in Feb and have been busy.  I did not realise how long it has been time goes so quickly.  I have been sewing so I will hopefully upload some new garments as soon as I have photos.

This dress is made from silk crinkled chiffon and lined with silk satin.  It is very cool for summer and although the photo is not the best it is flattering as I was complimented by many of my friends.  I did lengthen it by one inch.  The lining has the shinny side out as the frill is showing.  I don't normally like fills on the end of a dress however it makes this dress more fun and full.  The pattern is easy but time consuming with all the heming required. For more details please see the Patter Review link.